Middle Eastern Holy city: Jerusalem
Travel to the Middle East during Eid el Adha in Israel and Palestine is truly a magical experience. I was fortunate enough to not only travel there twice, but my very first trip being at the height of the Muslim holiday.
Israeli Maccabee Beer by Mathias Fredici Kristensen
My travel buddies included some classmates and friends I had made at the American University in Cairo, where I was studying Arabic intensively at the time. They were mainly Americans and Norwegians, with yours truly as the only Latina (and Arab-looking) member of the group. Our week-long itinerary included the cities of Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Dead Sea area (I believe Ein Gedi) in Israel; Bethlehem, Hebron and Jericho in Palestine/West Bank. Namely, we were all captivated. While the bright, yet also grim cultural rainbow may sometimes not be easy on the eyes, these lands have a special aura that you never forget.
Streets and markets of the Old City of Jerusalem - by Mathias Fredici Kristensen
We departed on December 2008, during the Muslim “Festival of Sacrifice,” Eid El Adha. Also called Eid el-Kibir (the ‘Big Festival’), Bari Eid, Baed Eid, Bakri Eid, Kurban Bayram, Qurban Bayram, Kurban Bayram, and Kurban Eit, it is one of the most important holidays in Islam. Ibrahim‘s (Abraham) willingness to obey God and sacrifice his only son Ishmael (Isaac) is commemorated through the sacrifice (Qurbani) of an animal. Specific rules must be followed, which dictate the type of animal, its age, slaughter method and slaughterer traits. In the end, the phrase Allāhu Akbar (الله أكبر) is uttered.
Eid el Adha slaughtered animals (Photo: Mathias Fredici Kristensen)
Traveling to Jerusalem during Eid el Adha was quite a magical experience. We stayed in the Old City at Citadel Hostel. By the way, this hostel is amazing. Not only do I recommend staying in this area of town due to its location, but the fellow travelers we met and staff at this place definitely added to our experience. Located in Jaffa Gate, Citadel Hostel is nestled right in the middle of the Arab Quarter amid markets and streets that have witnessed history in the making for a millenia. The rooms make you feel as if you are staying in an old castle. While the quarters and lobby may be considered tiny by some, when it comes to its charm and uniqueness, there is no contest.
entrance of Citadel Hostel - Jerusalem
Citadel Hostel - castle room!
After settling in, we rushed to Damascus Gate, per our hostel’s owner advice. There, it seemed to be the center of the action: Damascus Gate was throbbing with activity. Entire families gathered, children dressed in bright colors, vendors everywhere. All kinds of food, music, dancing and algarabía flooded the Gate and its surrounding streets. It was like nothing I had ever seen. While Ramadan in Cairo was just as impressive, Eid el Adha in Israel and Palestine (particularly Jerusalem) was a completely different experience. I am so glad I got to witness it!
Eid el Adha at Damascus Gate by Mathias Fredici Kristensen (click for panorama)
Candy stand by Mathias Fredici Kristensen
For the next few days, we saw the different sights: Wailing Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Tower of David, Mount of Olives, Via Dolorosa, etc. Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the site of the Dome of the Rock, as security was tight due to the festivities. Fortunately though, I got to visit the site and even go inside the golden Dome on my second trip! But that’s another entry for another day 
Via Dolorosa by Mathias Fredici Kristensen (click for full size)
Middle East holy site - Jesus Christ Prison by Mathias Fredici Kristensen
Jerusalem, Aedicula of the Holy Sepulcher by Berthold Werner
Our next stop was Tel Aviv-Yafo. Literally meaning “Spring Mound-Beautiful,” this cosmopolitan city surely took me by surprise. I must admit, I wasn’t expecting such cleanliness, modernity, and well, beauty! Its promenade is a treat to walk, providing the onlooker beautiful views of the Mediterranean ocean on one side and the city skyline on the other.
Tel Aviv beach promenade, Wiki Commons (click for full size)
While the downtown area is sure stunning, my friends and I decided to stay at the Sub Kuch Milega Guesthouse on Hamashbir Street. Coming from the Hindi phrase meaning “everything is possible,” this funky hostel is the epitome of how I imagined hostels to be before I ever stepped into one. The bright colors, its permeating Indian spices scent due to its 24-hour Indian kitchen, their 32-shekel-all-you-can-eat Indian buffet, 24-hour bar…you can only imagine. The vibe of the place is unique and you get to meet several locals that simply hang out at the place to eat and drink. We were fortunate enough to meet a group of Israelis that were planning a Palestinian solidarity “peace walk” — now that’s something you won’t see on the news! Sad isn’t it?
We arrived late at night, so we ate some Indian food that btw was pretty good. Then we went to bed, which was a dorm room with pretty comfortable beds from what I remember. Nope, I didn’t find any bedbugs while I was there, which is good!
Subkuch Milega Hostel lobby
The next morning we were off to explore the city. We didn’t take a cab as we believe wandering is the best way to explore a new city. Honestly, going through the backstreets and neighborhoods of Tel Aviv, outside the touristy areas, is an experience in itself. The graffiti you find around the city is quite interesting and it had our friend Dave hypnotized! He took several good pictures
[For Part Two of this photo essay, click here]
Did you join in a local festival or holiday during your travels?
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October 19, 2011 at 5:52 am
Israel has a right to remain as much as any additional nation but Israel has to stop the bestial strikes and attacks on poor Palestanians in GAZA. There’s a difference among a Jew and a Zionist where a Zionist has been as evil as Bin Laden and Ghazi of Red Mosque and a Jew as good as any other Muslim (just one example).